WOW – Washington Pickle Trains and the Great Coulee Dam

Wenatchee River behind our campsite

We reluctantly left the Northern Cascades and headed toward Leavenworth, a German-themed town just over Steven’s Pass. We headed down from the pass through the Tumwater Canyon. Our plan was to stop in Leavenworth for an hour or two then continue on to a county RV park just outside of Wenatchee. We have found the county parks we stayed in to be very nice and usually cheaper than the private campgrounds. Unfortunately, , we couldn’t find a place to park with the camper in Leavenworth and it looked a bit touristy, so we pressed on to Wenatchee River County Park. This park seems to cater to seniors. It was extremely clean and had numerous rules about age of your RV, putting mats on the lawn, and not allowing clotheslines It was tobacco free (a good thing).. Despite, all the rules, the sites were all drive-thru and it did have full hookups and a laundry and a good price so we were very happy. It was right on the Wenatchee River, just before it joined the Columbia. When we pulled into our site, we saw that our nuclear engineer friend, Mick and his wife were camping next to us.:)

Heading into Leavenworth, Washington
Wenatchee River behind our campsite

Almost everywhere we camped on this trip was near railroad tracks. We were getting used to hearing trains pass by once or rwice a night. The tracks near Wenatchee were especially busy and, because they crossed street near our campground included a loud train whistle every time a train went by. In the morning we were able to get a look at the trains and their cargo and found train after train carrying airplane fuselages. After a quick search on Google, we found that theses are called ” pickle trains” due to the bright green protective anti-corrosion coating applied to the train bodies. The trains are manufactured in Wichita, Kansas and travel by rail to the Boeing assembly plant in Renton, Washington. It was really cool to see the planes on the train.

Pickle Train (Boeing 737) on their way to Boeing from Wichita for further assembly

We left Wenatchee and decided to stay on Route 2 instead of getting on I 90. The backroads are much more interesting and frankly we don’t travel much faster than 55 mph anyway.

Waterville,WA – so flat for miles and miles

The terrain in eastern Washington is very different than the mountains and coast. It is very dry and very flat for miles and miles. We took a 30 minute detour to check out the Great Coulee Dam. It is quite impressive with a large (empty) Visitor Center. I guess touring dans is not popular anymore. The dam is the largest concrete dam in the US and was built to provide energy and irrigation. Unfortunately when they built it they did not include fish ladders because the dam is 550 feet tall and this blocked migratory salmon from accessing the Upper Columbia river for decades and this affected the indigenous populations in the area who relied on salmon. Fortuntaely there are several fish hacheries and salmon have been reintroduced into the upper Columbia River. We enjoyed the Visitor Center and learing about the history of the dam.

Banks Lake – just to soutwest of Coulee Dam created for irrigation
Outside of Coulee City
Coulee Dam

We drove thru Spokane and into Idaho. We planned to stay at an RV park in Wallace and ride a couple of bike trails over the next couple days before going to Glacier National Park

Headed out of Spokane

WOW- Olympic National Park. Part 2 – Exporing the wonders of the Hoh Rainforest

Amazing Hoh Rainforest

After enjoying a coffee and breakfast at our new favorite campsite on the bluff of the Pacific, we packed a lunch and headed north on Highway 101 to the Hoh Rainforest.

Scenic breakfast

Shortly after turning off the highway, the trees seemed to be even more lush with Spanish moss everywhere.We followed the Hoh River to the end of the road and the Olympic National Park Hoh River Visitor Center.  Donna got her national park stamp and we headed out on the Hoh River Trail.  This trail goes 17.4 miles to Glacier Meadows with views of Mount Olympus and the Blue Glacier. Our plan was to walk as far as we could – maybe to Tom Creek and then turn around. 

Walking thru the rainforest was amazing and pictures just don’t do it justice.  We stopped often to take photos, look at trees and just breath.  After a couple miles we crossed a bridge over a small stream and stopped for lunch.

So much moss

As we were getting ready to head out again after our lunch break, a couple of rangers came around the corner with two horses and a couple mules. Apparently another mule had fallen off the bridge we recently crossed and they were having difficulty getting it back on the trail.  It was loaded down with food and supplies that they were planning to deliver to a trail crew about 8 miles further up the trail .  They tied the horses up in front of us and asked us to stay put while they tried to get the young mule back on the trail.  Fortunately, it was not hurt but was frightened. While we waited, we were able to talk with the other hikers and share stories.  They were from Liverpool, UK, Detroit and Olympic, Washington.  The woman from Olympic had applied to work for the state of Maine but heard back from the state of Washington first so took the job here. 

Trying to get the mule back on the trail
Success

After a great day of hiking we headed back to the camper to have dinner and watch the sunset. So much natural beauty in one day!

View of sunset out the window while lying in bed in our camper

WOW – Columbia River Gorge – Wonderful!

Low railroad bridge clearance entering Cascade Locks Marina and Campground

We left Boardman for the short drive to Cascade Locks in the Columbia River Gorge. Although it was only a two hour drive, it was an adventure due to the incessant wind. The wind was blowing 30 mph with gusts up to 60 mph. Apparently this is common along the gorge. We had to drive slowly as our camper was constantly buffeted by the strong winds and swaying despite our weight distribution hitch and anti-sway bars. We stopped for coffee en route and talked with a guy on a motorcycle who told us he was stopping for the night despite the fact that is was only 1:00 pm as he found it too dangerous to drive his bike in the wind

Columbia River

Camping at Cascade Locks Marine Park and Campground

We arrived at the Port of Cascade Locks Marine Park and Campground in the early afternoon and were pleasantly surprised. The campground, run by the Cascade Locks Port is a hidden gem with only 18 campsites for small RVs with electric and water hookups and a separate tenting area which mostly serves Pacific Crest Trail Hikers. There is a campground host available on a part time basis and flush toilets and it is beautifully landscaped. There is even a historical museum on site. It It is located at the marina right on the Columbia River and in walking distance to several restaurants and breweries. It is not well advertised and there were only 2 other campers there.

John at campsite

After we set up camp and had lunch, we enjoyed a walk around the park and checked out the river. The Port also serves as a wedding venue and there were a couple weddings in progress. For supper, we decided to check our one of the breweries and had appetizers for dinner. One of the weddings at the port ended up at the same brewery. Apparently having llamas at your wedding is popular according to the waitress and we watched as the bride and groom posed with the llams.

View from our site of lock on Columbia River with Bridge of the Gods in background

Bike Ride on Historic Columbia River Highway Trail and Walk over the Bridge of the Gods

The next morning, we got up and headed out for a bike ride. The Historic Columbia River Highway had a trail head close to the campground. We headed over, hoping for a 20 mile round trip ride. It is a beautiful trail along the river which goes thru tunnels and over bridges with great views. There was a sign indicating the trail was closed ahead for a landslide but we decided to go as far as we could. We went about 5 miles and then came to the landslide. It was quite a large landslide. We reluctantly headed back.

There was no way we would make it thru this landslide

We headed over the check out the Bridge of the Gods. This is a toll bridge for cars but pedestrians and cyclists can cross for free. It is a route used by hikers on the Pacific Crest Trail to cross the Columbia River. It was too early in the season for thru hikers. It is a 5 month hike and most hikers are in this area in August. The Bridge of the Gods was featured in the movie “Wild” based on Cheryl Strayed’s novel “Wild”.

Toll Booth for Bridge of the Gods

It was scary but thrilling to walk over the bridge. There are no breakdown lanes, but also not much traffic. The bridge has steel grates that you can look thru as you are walking and see the river raging 140 feet below you. It was also windy. We walked across single file to Washington and back over to Oregon. The views from the bridge were great.

Walking over Bridge of the Gods
Columbia River 140 feet below
Most beautiful dump station we have ever seen

We enjoyed our stop at the Columbia River Gorge and would definately like to return to the area. It is so beautiful and so many hikes and bike rides that are available. Our next stop is the Oregon Coast!

WOW – Traveling on the Oregon Trail thru Idaho

Twin Falls, Idaho

The Oregon Trail is a 2170 mile trail that connected the Missouri River to Oregon City,Oregon. Most of the western part of the trail was mapped by Lewis and Clark between 1804 and 1806. In 1843 ,an estimated 700 – 1000 emigrants left for Oregon in wagon trains. This mass exodus across the west was called “the Wagon Train”or the “Great Migration”. We followed the trail almost all day after leaving Salt Lake City. At a couple stops we even saw the original ruts made by the wagon train wheels. I can’t traveling all that way in a bumpy wagon.

Our first stop was Twin Falls Idaho on the Snake River. We pulled into a campground that was free of charge on the north side of the Snake River. We decided to leave the trailer there for a few hours while we checked out the canyon without worrying about parking with the camper. The terrain is so flat there we couldn’t imagine where the canyon was. We drove out of the campground and as we crossed the bridge into town we were amazed to see the very deep canyon with the Snake River at the bottom. We parked the truck and headed to the edge to check things out

Free campsite at Ricketts RV Camp at snake River Park.
Quite desolate but free 😊
Quick lunch before exploring
View of Snake River Canyon under the bridge

We were amazed at how deep the canyon was (500 feet). . I felt like it could have been a National Park. Apparently this was the area where Evil Knievel attempted to jump across the canyon in his rocket-powered motorcycle in 1977 but didn’t make it. I remember seeing this on TV but didn’t really know where it took place. Luckily his parachute deployed and he wasn’t hurt.

John next to Evil Knieval plaque.

Next we headed to Shoshone park and the Shoshone Falls. They are often referred to as the “Niagara of the West” as they are 45feet taller than Niagara Falls. We drove to the park which is at the bottom of the cannon. Apparently spring is the best time to see the falls as water is diverted for irrigation in summer. This year was a low snowfall and we were told they are usually even more thunderous this time of year.

Shoshone Falls

We debated spending the night at our free campsite but decided to drive another hour or so. We stopped at the Y Knot Winery RV Park for the night and decided to check out the wine tasting and restaurant. We later found it there was a state park just down the road called Three Island Crossing State Park that had camping. This was the site where emigrants on the Oregon Trail would attempt to cross the Snake River across three sand bars. Apparently there were many casualties. We headed over there to check it out after dinner. It was a beautiful and very peaceful campground with a large Oregon Trail interpretation center. We would definitely stay there if we are out this way again.

Three Island Crossing

WOW (Wanderlust on Wheels) – Great Smoky Mountains National Park

Great Smoky Mountains National Park

We left West Virginia and headed south thru a bit of Virginia and into Johnston City, Tennessee and the Smoky Mountains. Great Smoky Mountain National Park is the most visited park in the country and when I revised my trip Deep Creek Campground was the only campground in the park I was able to book. It is located in the southern part of Great Smoky Mountain National Park, in Bryson City, NC. It turned out to be a good choice. It is much less busy than other parts of the park. There was a trail to 3 different waterfalls from the campground. My daughter, Adriana and her partner Micah met us at the campground and set their tent up next to our camper. We had a great visit.

Tom Branch Falls
Janey Whank Falls

Deep Creek Campground opened for the season the day we arrived. While we were setting up camp, we met a wonderful couple a little older than us from Vermont. They told us they had been in a motel in Gatlinburg for a few days while recovering from an illness and that it was very crowded and commercialized. They were very happy to be in this part of the Smokies. We had a lot of fun talking with them multiple times during our stay and even exchanged addresses the day we left. We met another young guy who told us about a great campsite in Olympic National Park we should check out and a WW II D-Day alumni veteran who told us how he used to come to the campground all the time with his wife who had recently passed away. We enjoy meeting other campers. Most folks are friendly and they are always impressed that we love in Maine 😊🌲

Micah attempting to split wood

On one of the days there, we took a ride up to Newcomb Gap and hiked a bit of the Appalachian Trail on the border of Tennessee. The views were amazing.

Appalachian Trail in NC – only 1972 miles till Katahdin!
Newfound Gap
Newfound Gap – border of NC and Tennessee
Great country folk duo with baby (and Sasquatch)
Pasta dinner by the creek
Fun times with family in the Smoky Mountains

Exploring New River Gorge: Our Adventure in West Virginia

New River Bridge

Our plan was to leave Maryland and drive to Watoka State Park in West Virginia to ride our bikes on the Greenbriar Rail Trail which is supposed to be awesome. However, we woke up to pouring rain and as we looked at our route saw there were a lot of mountains and a two lane windy road to travel on in the driving rain. With at least 12 hours of rain in the forecast, we revised our plans and decided to drive directly to the New River Gorge National Park on the interstate. We will come back someday to do the Greenbriar Rail Trail.

West Virginia
Rainy Day in West Virginia with terrible visibilty –

There are only backcountry campsites at the national park so we decided to camp at a private campground adjacent to the park. The Outpost at New River Gorge Campground did not disappoint. It was a great campgound, with trails directly into the park. It is run by some really nice young guys who also have cabins for rent and weekly bluegrass music throughout the summer. While it wasn’t completely wooded and our site was in a field (well landscaped), the bathrooms were very impressive – I would even call them spa like. :). We would definately return to The Outpost at NRG campground and recommend it to others.

Hiking Under the New River Bridge

The Outpost was in the town of Fayetteville, WV (also known as the “coolest small town”) which is in the northern part of New River Gorge National Park – in walking distance to the impressive bridge over the New River. The bridge spans the 876 foot deep New River Gorge and was built in 1977. It is the longest steel arch span in the western hemisphere and the third highest bridge in the US. The first morning we were there,the sun came out and we took a walk from the campground to the bottom of the bridge. It was a bit steeper and longer than we had planned but we took plenty of breaks. We met a guy on the trail whose company had supplied the steel for the bridge. For those who enjoy heights, you can walk across a cat walk just undernearth the top of the bridge that is 2 feet wide (for $80 ). They attach harnesses and cables for safety. The guy we met on the trail and his wife walked across the day before. While John wanted to walk across, we decided to pass. My palms were sweating as they were talking about it.

Look closely and you can see a group of walkers under the bridge
Fayettville, WV – Coolest Small Town

We checked out the Visitor Center later that day and drove down a small one way road to the bottom of the gorge, over the old restored bridge, and up the other side where we ended up back at the campground. It is hard to believe before 1977, this was the only way to get across the gorge.

A bit of Maine at the bottom of the New River Bridge!
New River Bridge
We feel so small next to this giant RV – but we like ours better 🙂

We really liked our time in West Virginia and hope to be back. There are so many natural resources there to explore!

Camino del Norte – Stage 35. Santiago de Compostela!!! We made it 😀

We made it!! (5/13/2025)

We woke up excited to walk the remaining 11 k to Santiago. Thankfully, the rain held off for much of the morning. There was a different feeling about the walk today – excitement that we were almost at the end of our trek mixed with a little sadness that our adventure was ending. We walked for a while with a group from Israel who were there walking at their 50th reunion of officers training academy. They walked the last 100 k on the Camino Frances as many people did. It is necessary to walk at least 100K is to get a Compostela. We also walked with a young man from Malasia who was also walking the last 100 k.

10 k to go

A line of hikers heading to the finish in Santago

Friends we met from Israel celebrating their 50th anniversary from graduating from Army Officers Training
New friend from Malasia
Mementos, prayers and memories of loved ones
Placing a shell from Maine on the memorial for an acquaintance from Maine who always wanted to walk the camino but is unable to.
We also placed shells from Maine with loving thoughts and prayers for family members no longer wupith us and for the health of our kids and our grandaughter.
The A 8 highway runs across the northern coast of Spain. We crossed it on bridges and went under it in tunnels multiple times on our walk

We made it to Santiago de Compostela just after noon. We were excited to walk under the tunnel entrance to the Plaza del Obradoiro to traditional bagpipe music. It is a festive atmosphere for all as it culminates the end of weeks of walking. It is a maginificent plaza and cathedral complex. We took the necessary pictures and found a cafe for lunch. While we were eating, we had a text from Slyvio and Eugeneo. While they made it to Santiago the day before, they returned to the cathedral for a few hours while waiting for their flight. It was nice to see them one last and final time.

Pilgrims are usually greeted with bagpipe music entering the cathedral complex
The Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela
Plaza del Obradoiro
Padrone peppers – a well deserved lunch
A nice couple who grew up in the old town in Santiago de Compostela. They let us share their umbrella when the rain started
Eugenio and Sylvio the day they made it to Santiago de Compestela

The Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela began construction in 1075 and was completed in 1211. It is quite old. It is located at the end of the Camino and the destination of pilgrims since the Early Middle Ages. It is the burial place of Saint James the Great, one of the aposcles of Jesus Chris. The crypt, below the main alter houses the relics of Saint James and two of this disiples. It is available for viethewing. The cathedreal offers pilgrm massess at least twice a day at noon and 7:30 pm. The Botafumerio, the largest inscense burner in the world is often used at pilgrim masses. It is 180 lbs and measures 5’2 in height. It is attached to a pulley mechanism in the dome of the church and is swung above the heads of the parisioners dispensing incense by 8 men in red robes. It reaches speeds of 50 mph. It is quite a site to see.

The Botafumeiro hanging from a rope – It is over 5 feet high and weighs 180 lbs. It is filled with 88 lbs of charcoal and incense and is a site to see swining over heads of parishioners.

After lunch we checked into our hotel, The Santa Filomena. When I was planning our trip, I saw the Hotel Santa Filomena and made a reservation as that is my mother’s name down to the spelling. It was a nice simple hotel that is a converted convent. We then headed over to the Pilgrim’s Office. As I mentioned in a previous post, we each had a credential that we had stamped at each albergue and pension we slept at for the entire 35 days. We also received stamps at numerous churches and cafes we visited. At the pilgrims office we showed our credentials and were given a Compestela and a Distance Certificate. We had walked 828 kilometers (mostly up and down hills and mountains) over 35 days on the Camino Del Norte! We are already taking about returning. 🙂

Pilgrim Credential
Compostela
Distance Certificate

Camino del Norte- Stage 16 Pendueles to Llanes. John and Donna walking thru Asturias.

After a great breakfast at the alburgue we headed out for Llanes – only about 15 k away so we will have a shorter walk today. Llames is on the coast and is a town where many Spaniards vacation. The first part of our walk was thru pastures and some forest and we again had ocean views from time to time. Through out the morning, we crossed paths from hikers the night before and even some from the days before.

Breakfast with new friends from Spain, Rome and Atgentina
Heading out
Mamma and her calf kissing
Always find the sea again
Our younger friends always leave later but catch up with us quickly
Walking with new friend from London
And Argentina – we both like to talk
Indiamo home
We made it to Llanes
Hotel Peurto Rico, our Pensión for the nightn

when we made it to Llanes we had lunch while waiting to check in and then John went to rest while I checked out the town. I was on a mission to find another pair of socks. I had left a pair of socks drying on a chair a couple days ago and was having a hard time making do with just two pair. My feet sweat a lot and I like to change socks half-way thru the hike. It helps prevent blisters. My Darn Tough socks are great but take a long time to dry when washing by hand. The stores all close from 2:00 to 4:30 in Spain for siesta. Unfortunately the only socks I could find were Camino souvenir socks which are very thin but better than nothing so I bought a pair.

Walking around Llames

We met up with George from Czech Republic for dinner and conversation about classic rock and roll. George isn’t his real name but we couldn’t pronounce his name so he told us to go with George. He is our age and has seen a lot of change in the Czech Republic over the years. Of course we don’t speak Czech and he speaks only limited English but it was a great conversation nonetheless. On the Camino Norte. There are many people who speak no English. This was not the case on the Camino Frances which I walked about 5 years ago. We also have only met a handful of Americans on this trip it is nice to talk to people who have different cultural experiences and perspectives of the world and Americans. It shows that we really are all have a lot in common.

John and “George” discussing classic rock and roll – George saw Rolling Stones twice in Czech Republic back in the day of Czechoslovakia.

Camino del Norte – Stage 15. Comillas to Pendueles. We are still moving forward in Spain

We left our alburgue with less sleep than we would have liked. While the albergue was clean and organized, the beds were close together and the top bunks were quite high. The bunks all had curtains, outlets and their own light which was nice, but I was pretty warm up near the ceiling and felt a little claustrophobic. We had the included breakfast of toast and jam with coffee and headed out. The town was still quiet at 8:00 am when we left and it was a pretty walk out of town.

Heading to town to start our walk
Church of San Cristobal, Comillas
Palace de Sobrellano, 1888

We passed numerous beaches on our way and the only people in the water were of course surfers. I didn’t realize there was such a strong surfer culture in northern Spain.

So many giant slugs and snails

As usual when hiking on the coast of northern Spain, we seemed to always be walking uphill – even near the ocean. We hiked up hill for quite a way and as we reached the top, the most amazing views spread before us. The snow covered Picos de Europa was on the left, a beautiful village was in front of us in the distance and magnificent views of the Atlantic Ocean were on our right. I truly couldn’t believe the view and wondered why I had never heard of this place. I took a lot of photos but they don’t do it justice. John called it is “wow” moment. The most amazing thing was that cows were grazing on this beautiful land and there were no people around. And no high-rise hotels. I’m sure it is busier in the summer. But still….

Snow covered Picos de Europa
San Vincente de a Barquera in the distance
Snow covered Picos de Europa

We could see the medieval church of San Vincente de a Barquera in the distance for quite a while – for at least 5 k We finally crossed the bridge into the city, took a requisite Camino photo and stopped for a coffee and tortilla. We saw several friends from the hostel the night before in town. They are much quicker walkers than us.

San Vincent’s de la Barquera in the distance
Two pilgrims

We soon left Cantabria and entered the Asturias region. We hiked inland for a time thru the forest but eventually made our way back to the coast. We came to an intersection where we could choose to walk for a time along the road or choose the coastal route. We chose coastal. The trail as t marked but we could see the path crossing cow pasture and running along cliffs near the coast. We could see that a couple we met from Hungry earlier stopped at the same intersection but they chose the road. The scenery again was beautiful. We did lose the path a couple times – I think because it’s early in season and grass had overgrown sections. It was a bit scary at times as there was a sharp drop to the ocean on one side and thorns and large cows to the left. At one point, we were not sure how we would get thru one of the gates as there were several cows in the way. They seem quite docile but they are very large and there was no where to go on the right but down a cliff. But as we got closer they let us pass by without a problem. I have decided I really like dairy cows. 😊. The mother cows take such good care of the little ones.

How are we going to get thru this gate?
Our albergue for the night, Aves de Paso

we arrived a little before they opened. John decided on a siesta while I went to check out the village of Pedentues.

Interesting rock just outside our albergue
Ruins of Indiano house. These were lavish houses built by Spaniards who sailed to the new world and made money in the Americas, especially Cuba. Many are still lived in today and are found in the Asturias region. Most had at least one large palm tree in front and were surrounded by walls and gates.

The albergue was the best we stayed in so far. There were only 11 beds and it had such a welcome vibe. They did a couple community loads of laundry for us. We were allowed to wash clothes worn that day. It is always nice to have laundry done by machine. We had a delicious community meal with new friends from Hungry, Argentina, Italy, Barcelona, Japan, Michigan, the Netherlands, Czech Republic and of course Germany. At dinner we received notes of encouragement written by pilgrims there the day before. Of course we paid it forward by writing out own notes to pilgrims coming the next day. The albergue was donativo which means you pay what you can for services offered.
it was a special experience and we slept well.

Wonderful community meal
Delicious vegetarian supper with local wine
Messages of encouragement from other pilgrims.

Camino del Norte – Stage 13. Boo to Santillana del Mar

516 more kilometers till we reach Santiago de Compestela

We left Boo after a quick cup of cafe con leche with plans to stop on the way for a tortilla. In order to cross the Pas River we had to take the train one stop as pedestrians are not allowed to cross the railroad bridge. The train is free for pilgrims to ride one stop. Since we had a long day of walking ahead and it was raining, we decided to stay on the train an additional two stops.

Boo train station
All decked out in rain gear
John has lost weight on our trip so far. He can’t tighten his belt any further 😊

We had to walk by a large chemical plant for at least 3 k. It it was called Solvay and they produce soda ash. It was an huge plant. Apparently they have 9000 employees world wide. We walked by their employee housing , a school etc. It wasn’t the most scenic part of the day but it was interesting. It started raining soon after we left Boo but it was a soft rain and we knew it wouldn’t last the whole day.

Solvay plant

After walking another 15 k through rolling countryside, we made our way into the historic town of Santillana Del Mar.

walking into Santillana Del Mar
Collegiate Church of Santa Juliana
Santillana del Mar

Santillana Del Mar is a medieval town that grew up around the Collegiate Church of Santa Juliana. It is known as one of the prettiest towns in Spain and it really is beautiful. Because of its beauty it is on many tourist bus stops in northern Spain and has many tourists around town during the day. In the evening when tour busses leave, it is much more quiet. It is also very close to the Altamira Caves, which are home to some of the oldest and best preserved prehistoric art drawings in the world. We didn’t go there but it sounds pretty cool.

Hospedaje Maria Jesus – our pension for the night

We stayed in a cute pension owned by a wonderful hostess named Maria Jesus. It was a spotless room and very comfortable. After doing our usual chores (laundry) we headed out to explore. We ran into Pao from Taiwan who was also staying in town. I was hoping to buy a pair of socks, as I left my extra pair on the line at the last albergue. We saw a crowd of people heading to the church and we joined them thinking it was now open and we could get a look inside. When we got to the door we found out it was a funeral service. We had seen posters of a service but I hadn’t noticed the date. We have passed thru several towns were flyers are posted announcing funeral service for someone who has passed away. We didn’t want to wait around for 8.00 pm when the restaurants opened so we had a pizza at a place that closed at 6:00. It was delicious. I think we are eating fewer meals while here after walking all day, but when we do eat we are hungry. Maria Jesus provided a teapot and we had a cup of herbal tea and went to sleep. It was a nice day in a special town.